Tip #3975 - 3D: Landscape Photography
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3D:
Landscape Photography
Unlike the human eye
that can convey depth, a digital camera is limited in technology. So,
how do you add depth to your landscape photos that need it the most? Well,
here are a few suggestions. Follow these tips and you will be well on
your way to creating perfect 3D images!
Size Matters
Now, you know objects
that are closer to the lens appear larger than those further away from
them, right? Well, take this cue and bring some perspective to your landscape
shots. Your shot could be clouds nearing the horizon, water ripples close
to you and further away, ocean waves, rivers, streams, trees, flowers,
roads, etc. The point is to exaggerate what you want and minimize what
you don’t want. By doing that, you are also creating a 3D effect
by showing the distance between two objects: the one near the camera and
the one further away from it.
It’s
All in the Angle
Your landscape photos
should have a point of view. This is where the lenses come into play.
The wide angle lenses increase the perceived distance between elements
in the composition and promote a feeling of deep space. Telephoto lenses
lend exactly the opposite of this. They compress the distance between
elements in the scene. To accentuate these extreme effects, you should
position the camera as close as possible to the nearest object in the
composition.
Adjusting
the Height of Your Camera
This can only come
by experimentation. Since you own a digital camera, you can take multiple
pictures and still not burn a hole in your pocket, unlike the old days.
As a rule, landscape subjects that are closer to you should be positioned
lower in your field of view than those more distant. Why? Because your
eyes are more than five feet above the ground and if you want to achieve
the highest 3D effect, you should focus on the object at about a 45 degree
angle above the ground. In other words, the focal length of your lens
should be wide enough to include the horizon and a bit of sky. If you
place the camera too low, you will lose visual exposure of the spaces
between size cues. If you set up too high, you will lose the horizon and
the familiar eye-level configuration of the size cue. Either position
results in a flattening of the scene.
Maximize Your
Size Cues
Position the camera
horizontally so that the number of size cues portrayed are maximized and
the cues are kept separate and distinct. This step may require you to
move the camera forward or backward, as well as, sideways. In most situations,
you should set depth of field to include both the closest size cue and
features on the horizon (usually infinity).
Add Mood to
Your Landscapes
Landscapes on hazy
days can be great for photography. Due to particles suspended in the atmosphere,
close objects appear more detailed than those further away. Aerial perspective
is commonly encountered as fog, mist, snow, dust and haze. When shooting
in these moody conditions, you can be assured of opportunities on the
periphery of the atmospheric phenomenon, like the edge of storms or cloud
banks. You can modulate the effect by changing position or waiting for
a change or movement of the weather pattern.
Timing is
Everything
The earlier in the
day you shoot, the greater the effect. To flatten perspective and achieve
an impression that is somewhat surreal, shoot early or late in the day,
with the sun directly behind you for better illumination. Landscapes illuminated
from the side fall into areas of highlight and shadow. This overlapping
of objects or planes is emphasized and clarified, because the shadow portion
of one is set against the highlight portion of another.
Give Some
Space
If you are trying
to include moving subjects into your landscape photos, like a passing
cloud, rain drops or a dust storm, give the subject some space in your
image to move into. If you do that, your landscapes will look that much
more three dimensional.
Framing Does
It
Frame your subject.
You can emphasize your subject by placing it into a frame of some sort.
Things like an open window, tree branches or a doorway work very well.
Shallow Depth
of Field
This is a great way
to handle a busy background that would otherwise interfere with your subject.
To get to a shallow depth of field, use a long focal length, open the
aperture as wide as possible and get as close as possible to your subject.
This works best with DSLRs. It’s an effect that is hard to achieve
with a point and shoot camera. And yes, use a polarizer to bring down
the brightness of the skies. This works best with blue skies and when
the sun is to your left or right. Polarizers also increase the saturation
of the colors in your image.
Some Dos and
Don'ts
1.) Use what is called
"negative space" to your advantage. It is the part of an image
that is not your subject. Don’t be afraid to use a lot of it every
now and then.
2.) Keep water lines
horizontal. If you take a photo of a lake or the sea, make sure to keep
the horizon level. Even a slight skew of half a degree will make the viewer
feel uncomfortable with the picture.
3.) Don’t be
afraid to cut off certain things. Get closer, only shoot part of a face
from a mountain or river or select another detail, like a protruding rock
or a patch of grass.
Have fun creating
your own 3D landscape masterpieces!
~ Zahid H. Javali
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